Užupis : The Peace-Loving Republic

Vilnius, October 2017

"Did you know that if you stare into the eyes of the Užupis Mermaid, you will be under her spell and you will stay in this place forever?" Jolanta, my Lithuanian friend asked me.

"Mermaid? They have mermaid here?" I looked around excitedly. You know, mermaid is my favourite mythical creature besides unicorn and I have always wanted to be one when I was a kid. Few people could have guessed it when they saw my red hair.

Jolanta smiled mysteriously and said, "Let's meet her. But I can not help if you fall under her spell".

Previously, Jolanta has asked me whether any particular places I wanted to visit in Vilnius and I promptly replied I'd really love to visit the Republic of Užupis! Once home to a Jewish population decimated by Holocaust, this creative community of artists, musicians, and intellectuals declared independence from Lithuania in 1997. The residents celebrate their independence day annually on April 1 (yes, intentionally on April Fool's Day) and they named it the Užupis day. Despite its tiny area of less than 1 sq km within the Lithuanian capital of Vilnius, Užupis has its own president, government, currency, and interesting constitution. The President of the Republic of Užupis, Romas Lileikis himself is a poet, musician, and film director.

Fun fact: you can even get a visa stamped into your passport at their 'immigration office'. Let's cross the bridge to find out, shall we?

artsy piece everywhere 

the Mermaid of Užupis

It began to drizzle when I walked on the bridge over the Vilnia River but it didn't slow me down. Jolanta pointed something under the bridge and there I was, face to face with the mermaid that she was talking about. The bronze mermaid was created by sculptor Romas Vilčiauskas and the local believe it's her who lures all the visitors from around the world. Those who surrender to her charm will remain in Užupis forever. The bare-chested, fish-tailed lady stared blankly into my eyes and I was expecting something to happen. I don't know...maybe I would turn into a stone? Wait a sec, I think I misunderstood the mermaid with Medusa's spell. I kept looking at her eyes for another minute, still nothing happened. Maybe she didn't want another mermaid to live there? I shrugged my shoulders and continued walking.

main square

the Angel of Užupis

Just a few minutes walking from the bridge and we already arrived at the central square where I saw a 9 metres high statue of Archangel Gabriel. The bronze Angel was also created by sculptor Romas Vilčiauskas and erected on the square in 2002. It's the Angel of Užupis, a symbol of growth and rebirth with his trumpet indicating a new free thinking age for the nation. The creative community also created their own version of holidays. One of them is the Day of White Tablecloths that celebrates around Easter. It is when the residents gather together at an outdoor terrace to share their Easter dinner leftovers. There's also the Days of Wind when they have concerts and events to keep their spirit up during the cold depressing winter in November. They sounds like a super fun people to be around, don't you think?

a republic where a dog has a right to be a dog

If the mermaid can't convince you to stay then maybe their quirky constitution can. The constitution's 41 clauses has translated into more than 70 languages since it was created in July 1998. Dozens of the constitution in various languages are printed on large mirrored rectangles and hangs along the road known as the Avenue of Constitution.

Here's the clauses:

1. Everyone has the right to live by the River Vilnele, and the River Vilnele has the right to flow by everyone.
2. Everyone has the right to hot water, heating in winter and a tiled roof.
3. Everyone has the right to die, but this is not an obligation.
4. Everyone has the right to make mistakes.
5. Everyone has the right to be unique.
6. Everyone has the right to love.
7. Everyone has the right not to be loved, but not necessarily.
8. Everyone has the right to be undistinguished and unknown.
9. Everyone has the right to idle.
10. Everyone has the right to love and take care of the cat.
11. Everyone has the right to look after the dog until one of them dies.
12. A dog has the right to be a dog.
13. A cat is not obliged to love its owner, but must help in time of need.
14. Sometimes everyone has the right to be unaware of their duties.
15. Everyone has the right to be in doubt, but this is not an obligation.
16. Everyone has the right to be happy.
17. Everyone has the right to be unhappy.
18. Everyone has the right to be silent.
19. Everyone has the right to have faith.
20. No one has the right to violence.
21. Everyone has the right to appreciate their unimportance.
22. No one has the right to have a design on eternity.
23. Everyone has the right to understand.
24. Everyone has the right to understand nothing.
25. Everyone has the right to be of any nationality.
26. Everyone has the right to celebrate or not celebrate their birthday.
27. Everyone shall remember their name.
28. Everyone may share what they possess.
29. No one can share what they do not possess.
30. Everyone has the right to have brothers, sisters and parents.
31. Everyone may be independent.
32. Everyone is responsible for their freedom.
33. Everyone has the right to cry.
34. Everyone has the right to be misunderstood.
35. No one has the right to make another person guilty.
36. Everyone has the right to be individual.
37. Everyone has the right to have no rights.
38. Everyone has the right to not to be afraid.
39. Do not defeat.
40. Do not fight back.
41. Do not surrender.

the Avenue of Constitution and the flag symbol

A blue hand with a hole in the middle is the symbol of the Užupis flag which was designed by Valdas Neimantas and there's 4 different colours for every season. It is interpreted in many ways...most popular is that the palm symbolise friendship and the hole means the whole world which becomes not so important if you have a friend. The hole is also supposed to mean that it's unable to accept bribes or they have nothing to hide in their hands.

How to get to Užupis?
There's actually some borders to enter this tiny republic from Vilnius and Jolanta took me to Uzupio Undinele or the main bridge. It was merely 5 minutes easy stroll from St. Anne's church in the Old Town of Vilnius towards the river. After crossing the bridge you will come across this red brick cafe (above picture) with an Užupis flag on it. If you want to get your passport stamped, head to the narrow path next to this cafe and walked until you find the souvenir shop a.k.a immigration office. Sadly it was closed when I got there so no passport stamp for me 😭

Would I recommend you to visit Užupis?
Well if you are keen of bohemian vibes, laid-back atmosphere, free thoughts and smart jokes then it could be your Disneyland-kind-of  place. It's good to know that despite living in this getting-too-crazy-too-chaos-too-fake world, there's this little dot where we can relax for a while, not to take life too seriously and be ourself. Heck, even a dog has the right to be a dog and everyone has the right to be happy....or unhappy if they wish so! I can't think of any country with a better constitution than this.

I'm signing off now to pack and to move to Užupis with all my doggos!

Estonia: Tallinn Haunted Story, Seagull & Almonds

Estonia, October 2016

I'm not a morning person.
Funnily when I travel, I don't mind at all getting up early even before the sun rises.
On the second day in Tallinn I woke up at 5 am feeling energised despite the long haul flight from Singapore on previous day. I was overly excited because when picking me up at the airport, Nikholai - my cicerone told me that he was going to take me to the Short-Gate tower which is infamous for its black monk ghosts. Me likey spooky thingy! 😍

roasted nuts vendor 

But first Nikholai took me to Kohtuotsa viewing platform on the northern side of Toompea hill. It offers charming view over the red roofs and towering spires of the Old Town with the Gulf of Finland as a background. It was soooo mesmerising that I shed happy tears. If you love exploring a place when the streets are empty and quiet (like I do), you should really consider to visit Tallinn during autumn. There was no one else around in the viewing platform which normally is packed with visitors. And those colourful autumn foliage was the icing on the cake.

freshly roasted assorted nuts 

The aroma of caramelised sugar with a hint of cinnamon tickled my nose. In one corner I noticed there's a wooden food chart and a woman in a medieval attire was roasting some almonds. Snacking time! My mom, my sister and I spent a good 15 minutes choosing which flavours to buy. Cherry cinnamon cashew nuts, cinnamon caramel peanuts, gourmet almonds and more variants to choose from. I opened a the pretty package of the roasted almonds to taste it. It was crunchy and the coating wasn't overly sweet just the way I like it.

"Pa, please hold this package for me." I handed the almonds to my Dad as I needed to get some cash from my bag. "Try it, Pa. It tastes really good."

"Sure!" He replied and walk away towards the terrace. After paying, I turned around trying to find my Dad......and my jaw dropped when I saw what he was doing.

I turned around and saw this!!! 😱😱😱

He was feeding a seagull with my yummy and precious caramelised almonds! NOOO!

"Pa! Why are you giving my almonds to that bird?" I whined as I saw the bird gulped my €2 delicacies greedily. "We are not supposed to feed the wildlife, you know?"

"But this poor guy is hungry. No worries at least I left some for you. Here!" He chuckled and handed me back the package.

"Yeah rite, Dad! I have only 5 almonds now including the crumbs." 😭😭😭

It's a good thing that on the way to the Short-Gate Tower, my attention was distracted by gorgeous architectures along the way. It didn't take long for me to forget about the almond tragedy.

that lil' thief savouring my almonds

Walls of Tallinn was constructed around the 14th centuries to fend off invaders. The 5 metres tall walls are connected with multitude gates and towers. Some towers have interesting stories behind its closed door. Such as the Virgin's Tower which was used as prison for prostitutes. And another one that stuck in my mind is Kiek in de Kök Tower, simply because I found the name kinda amusing. Errr...kick in the cock? Ouch! 😂 Actually Kiek in de Kök comes from German words which means peek in the kitchen. A legend said about some soldiers who often peeked from the top of the tower into the windows of Lower Town Kitchen.
(Disclaimer: Don't worry, no medieval cocks were harmed in this tower).

I'd really love to explore all the towers, sadly due to limited time I could only visited a few of them. In particular I was interested the most about the Short Leg Gate Tower. It is believed to be the most haunted building in the city!

We were just passing the gate when Nikholai pointing up something above me. I looked up and my soul jumped out my body. A faceless dark monk was staring down at me! I breathed a sigh of relief upon finding out it was just a statue. Phew! It looked sooo real, it gave me chill.

staring down fiercely at me

The Short Leg Gate Tower would be locked every night to keep the lower town out of Toompea Hill which was reserved for noble or higher social people only. Apparently also meant to keep out the ghosts from the Danish King's Garden. Infamous frequent sightings are a floating woman in medieval dress, lions, life size ships sailing through the walls and the Black Monk ghost. Rumours said that the monk's name was probably Justinius, a novice set on becoming a monk and was killed in 1233 before he could repent for his sins as a executioner's apprentice.

black monk ghost

a cafe in the city wall tower, how cool!

Kohvik Dannebrog, the Tower cafe

Before continuing our Old Town walking tour, Nikholai took my sister and I for a morning exercise by climbing some killer steep stairs to Kohvik Dannebrog. It's a cafe nests at the top of the old city wall tower. We didn't order anything because Mom & Dad were waiting at the courtyard. It would be too challenging for them to climb those old stone stairs. The cafe has a lovely settings and pretty view from the terrace. So it's definitely worth the leg and bum workout.

Vana Tallinn, a rum based liquor 

view from the terrace

climbing the steep stairs

Kohvik Dannebrog Cafe

gorgeous view from Kohtuotsa 

I can now safely say that I've been to Tallinn and met the infamous black monk ghost (well, kinda :p). As one of the most perfectly preserved medieval city in Europe, a bunch of terrifying dark stories  can be easily found around the city. I wished I could stay longer here. This city is charming and intriguing at the same time. I know that I have made many promises to other cities around the world to revisit. But hey, Tallinn you are right on top of my list. Please always stay as you are. xoxoxo

Poland: Malbork Castle The Biggest Castle In The World

Malbork, October 2016

what's behind the bush?

Once upon a time, in a far far land...
There was a princess who's adventurous and loved exploring new places. One fine afternoon, after days spent on the back of her beautiful white horse named Luna; they were lost in the midst of the dense forest. Suddenly she heard the sound of flowing water so she  hop off Luna's back and walked gently through the woods. She parted some branches to find out what behind the bush. Her eyes then widened in awe when she saw a humongous red brick castle standing tall and proud across the river.

"Excuse me, miss!" She heard a baritone voice echoed in her ears.

She turned around in slow motion. Her long wavy red hair swaying gracefully in the air. A smile lit up her face. She was so sure that she was about to meet her prince charming. There was a tall guy with dark brown hair standing only a few steps away. She fixed her gaze on his piercing blue eyes then move down to a badge on his clothes.

SECURITY GUARD. It's written on it.

"Miss, the entrance gate is on that side." He looked at her suspiciously. As if she was going to jump into the river or something.

Poof! and so there gone my fairy tale love story I created in my wild imagination. What's left only an awkward situation between me and the security guard. I muffled "Kbye" and walked away from my prince charming the security guard. Luna disappeared, replaced by my chauffeur and a white Mercedes Sprinter mini coach in the parking lot. My heart sank that I was brought back into reality abruptly. But I was comforted by the thought of I was about to explore the largest castle in the world...

crossing the bridge to Malbork Castle

Malbork Castle

Malbork Castle is one of many castles built in northern Poland by the Teutonic Knights, a German Roman Catholics religious order of crusaders, in a form of an Ordensburg fortress. It was built from red bricks on the southeastern bank of river Nogat and was named as Marienburg (Mary's Castle) after the Virgin Mary who was the patron saint of the Order. The castle was expanded several time to house the growing number of Knights, around 3000 of them. It was then declared as the largest fortified Gothic building in Europe on a 21 hectare site also the largest castle in the world, measured by land area.

Gothic details on the castle exterior

8 meters tall figure of Malbork Madonna

the main gate

the Middle Castle

Malbork was constructed in phases from the beginning of the 70s of the 13th century, thus throughout centuries this castle has been a witness to many events. From the residence of Polish Kings, a barrack for the Prussian army to a pilgrimage for the Hitler Youth and  League of German girls. Subjected to intensive development in the 14th century, it has received the trisection defensive form with a visibly separated High Castle (home to the monastery), the Middle Castle (home to the Palace of the Grand Master) and the Outer Castle (a widely spread economical and supporting facilities).

painted wall

I love the hallway! 

the court yard

the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

original 13th century wall and the broken statues 

Sadly during the World War II in 1945, more than half the castle was destroyed in particular the church and chapel. The castle experienced changes throughout the passage of years. It has been constantly reconstructed and completed in April 2016, just 6 month before my visit. The sacral objects upon the High Castle were restored into their initial magnificent form along with the reconstruction of the sculpture of the Madonna with a Child, which was returned into its initial position upon the Eastern closure of the church.

Walking inside the church and upon seeing the broken statues, I got a shiver down my spine. I've always love love love old buildings but somehow I'm sensitive about the energy in old places. It's hard to explain but sometimes all of the sudden I'd feel sad when visiting historical site. Perhaps because a place absorbs the memories that were in them? Or perhaps it's just me PMS-ing or feeling hungry....I really don't know. Have you ever felt that way though?

a pretty stained glass

the Middle Castle

In 1997 the Malbork Castle was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list. The Malbork Castle Museum posses 23 collections from the scope of art, artistic craft, architecture and history at its disposal. Currently the museum is the house for 40 thousand valuable items and displays one of Europe's largest collection of medieval architectural elements.

lunch at Piwniczka restaurant

selfie with the cutest shopkeeper at the souvenir shop

Besides visiting the castle, I also had lunch at Piwniczka restaurant inside the castle complex. While there's not much to say about the food, it was still an interesting experience enjoying food at a medieval dining room with brick walls, stained glass windows, beer barrels, fire place and all.

I regretted that I didn't check the castle opening hours during winter which is shorter than in summer. I only managed to explore some parts of the huge castle. I could actually spend the whole day here because there's so much to see. Well, then it's not a good bye, Malbork Castle. I will definitely visit you again, hopefully in the near future.

Malbork Castle

Malbork Castle Museum opening hours:

Winter Season (1 October - 14 April)  10.00 am - 3.00 pm
Summer Season (15 April - 30 September)  9.00 am - 7.00 pm
* On Mondays and holidays only some areas, sections and interiors of the castle area available.