Myanmar: Chasing Sunrise In Bagan

Bagan, November 2018

I think the word 'magical' is understatement to describe how stunning sunrises and sunsets in Bagan are. Like most visitors who plan to explore Bagan, I too did a little homework - searching where's the best places to watch sunrises and sunsets in Bagan. A lot of information I found are not so accurate anymore since now the officials prohibited the climbing of all pagodas in Bagan, the following month after some accidents including an American tourist fell to her death. It's understandable because these pagodas are nearly 1000 years old and have suffered a lot of natural disaster. Specially after nearly 400 pagodas were severely damaged in the massive earthquake in August 2016.

the beginning of twilight before sunrise

It was 5.30 in the morning when Zaw, my tuk tuk driver picked me up at the resort I stayed in Old Bagan. We met at the lobby and I was stunned when I saw him wrapped tightly in a thick heavy poncho with a beanie, shawl, wool socks, and stuffs. In the other hand, he was stunned when he saw me wearing a sleeveless top layered with a paper thin cardigan, a capri pants, and a pair of sandals. Well I knew it was in the middle of winter months in Myanmar but it can't be that cold, right? Or so I thought. As my tuk tuk rocking on dusty bumpy street of Old Bagan, I instantly regretted my choice of clothes. Turned out the temperature was merely 14℃ and it surely felt waaay colder. My sister and I were shivering as our toes turned blue. We should have checked the weather and brought a blanket from hotel room!

Irrawaddy River in Bagan

There are plenty of great sunrise spot scattered around Bagan and some of the most popular ones are very crowded. So on my previous emails, I've specially requested Zaw to take me to a less crowded spot. He steered his tuk tuk to a narrow street behind Aye Yar River View Resort towards the river. He took us to a viewing mound near U-Sauk-Pan-Hpaya Temple (scroll down for the exact position on google map). It was still pretty dark when I climbed up the mound with only few people around. I set up my tripod and camera then I sat down, enjoying the tranquillity (still shivering) while waiting for the sun to wake up.

U-Sauk-Pan-Hpaya Temple

sunrise in Bagan

It wasn't long until the sky started changing colours as the dawn had broke. A shimmering, gold disk began to shine through next to Dhammayangyi temple afar. My heart skipped a beat when I saw the first hot air balloon floating just barely above the thousand years old temples - towards the sun. About a dozen other balloon started to float behind, catching up with the first one. I was stunned and my mouth kept repeating "WOW" like a broken radio. I've seen tons of amazing pictures of hot air balloon and sunrise in Bagan on Internet but experiencing it myself is another story. I just couldn't find the right words to describe how stunning it was! It's just mind-blowing, really.

hot air balloons, an aeroplane and birds

hot air balloons in Bagan

I was busy with my camera trying my best to capture the view when I got chills all over my body and my vision became blurry. At first I thought I was about to faint because of hunger or hypothermia. Then I got choked up and tears began to run down my cheeks. The view and peaceful ambiance were overwhelmingly extraordinary that I got a rush of dopamine in my brain. Yes, I clearly have a soft spot for beautiful things or experiences. Sometimes I even cry when I listen to music. Perhaps it has something to do with being a HSP (Highly Sensitive Person)?

a serene morning in Bagan

It could have been my perfect sunrise moment in Bagan. I've visualised to write 'as the sun began to rise, I watched a bunch of hot air balloons drifting serenely over the plains of Bagan. All I could hear was the birds chirping. Such a peaceful and magical morning.' - on my blog post. In fact, all I could hear was a middle aged guy chirping talking loudly non-stop as he was trying to flirt with a lady who sat next to me. None of us at the sunrise point had a peaceful morning obviously. Including the oor lady, judging from her grumpy face. But I wouldn't let this tiny hiccups ruined my day. It was almost a perfect sunrise moment but stunning and unforgettable nevertheless.

my yellow Mercedes Benz

Temple View Hotel Bagan

I stayed 3 days at Aye Yar River View Resort in Old Bagan before I moved to Temple View Hotel in the edge of New Bagan. Besides I wanted to get a glimpse of another side of Bagan, it's also closer to Nyaung U Airport. It was more convenient to catch my morning flight. Temple View Hotel is a brand new hotel with room rate starts from USD 20 per night including breakfast. I opted for a bigger room with a balcony facing to temples at USD 40 per night. While breakfast menu was pretty basic, the sunrise view from the rooftop terrace made up for it.

breakfast view at Temple View Hotel Bagan

I set my alarm earlier because I wanted to enjoy my last sunrise in Bagan before flying to Inle Lake. Around 6am I went up to the rooftop terrace, fixed myself a cup of hot coffee and toast, and sat down at the table, facing the temples. I smiled as a chilly morning breeze swept my face. I was grateful to be able to enjoy a peaceful morning with rosé tainted skies with birds chirping sound (finally!). My smile got bigger when I saw some hot air balloon floating behind the temples towards my direction.
It was a nice surprise to find out I could actually watch the hot air balloons closer from this rooftop terrace. At some point the balloons floated pretty close that I saw some passengers were waving hands at me. I couldn't ask a better way to end my stay in this magnificent land of Bagan!

Tips: There's only few pagodas and temples that can be climbed up for sunrise and sunset. You'll need to venture off the main streets and find smaller temples. The best bet is asking the locals like tuk tuk drivers or hotel staffs who definitely know the area better. Myanmar people are one the most kind hearted and helpful people I've ever met. I was even taken to some hidden temples which can't be found on Google map.

breakfast with a view in Bagan

If I were asked whether sunrises in Bagan worth waking up in the wee hours and a pair of panda eyes later? I would wholeheartedly answer, YES! Absofu*k*nglutely! For me, I will not forget those precious mornings I experienced in Bagan. At least not for a very long time.

Japan: Magical Winter Illuminations

December 2017

Anyone going to Japan for Christmas holiday next month? Please, take me! Japan is a year round holiday destination with probably hanami or cherry blossom season is the most popular. Though I've been wanting to experience the beautiful hanami and autumn season in Japan, for some reasons I've always coming back during winter. Maybe I'm too smitten with the magical winter illuminations across the country or maybe I just love slurping piping hot ramen when it's freezing cold outside (I travel for food most of the time) or maybe I'm simply a lousy travel planner. 😂

Anyway on my previous trip to Japan last December, I tried to visit as many winter illuminations as possible in Tokyo and Osaka. All of them have different themes and equally pretty so don't ask me to pick which one I love the most. Not to mention that all of these venues are free so you can save your ¥ for a bowl of hearty ramen or a couple of Pucchin Purin later. Here's a photo essay of the events which of course don't do it justice. Go and experience it yourself! I'm sure you will be blown away by the enchanting ambiance like I've always have...

Shibuya Ao no Dokutsu 

the Blue Cave in Shibuya

The first few nights I was staying around the famous Shibuya Crossing, at Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu to be exact. When I found out it was merely 1 km to the 'Blue Cave' or Shibuya Ao no Dokutsu venue, my sister and I went for an early dinner then we walked towards the NHK headquarters. The street along the way was decorated with sapphire blue lights as a preview of the main venue. So it was an easy walk just like Hansel following the trail of breadcrumbs.

Welcome to Avatar world! I said it to myself. Well it did feel like that because my skin turned blue under the 600.000 blue LED lights along the avenue. It was crowded as expected but pretty nevertheless. This year Shibuya Ao no Dokotsu will be held from November 30 to December 31, 2018. Started at 17:00 until 22:00.

Omotesando

Omotesando

photoshoot in Harajuku

Next day I explored the stylish shopping street of Omotesando and Harajuku area which is just a couple station away from my hotel. I arrived a bit early so I waited at a nearby cafe before all the lights were lighted up. Omotesando was super packed with both tourists and locals that it was pretty difficult to get a seat at most cafes.  Finally around 5 pm, I got to see the colour of millions lights that decorated the trees along the street. Blue hour made those goldish LED lights pop out and looked more appealing. It reminded me of those sparkle bubbles after you pop a champagne cork.  It will start soon next from November 29 to December 25, 2018. Light up around sunset until 22:00

Shinjuku Minami Lumi

Takashimaya Shinjuku

Shinjuku Terrace

I checked on Google map and decided to keep walking towards Shinjuku station which is about 3km from Omotesando. Many people raved that the Shinjuku illumination is one of the prettiest. I was actually tired and famished but my curiosity won.

Last year marked the 12th year of the Shinjuku Illumination and the concept was 'making people smile'. The theme colour was baby pink of cherry blossom. It was indeed pretty and made me smile from ear to ear (and my eyes welled up with happy tears). It was so mesmerising and romantic that I almost grabbed a random guy and kiss him. Errrr...okay, maybe that's not a brilliant idea 😂

Shinjuku Minami Lumi starts from November 14, 2018 to February 14, 2019. From 17:00 until midnight.

Oh, hai! 😁

on the other side of the station

Shinjuku clock tower

After walked more than 8 hours since morning, it felt like my calves were going to explode anytime soon. With both arms full of shopping bags, I hailed and hopped on the infamous Tokyo taxi. It was expensive but I couldn't care less. My legs have given up and refused to move. Please just whisk me off to bed. Arigatou gozaimasu! 

Odaiba

Odaiba

Partire Tokyo Bay Wedding Village

Though in my opinion the illumination in Odaiba, the artificially created island in Tokyo Bay - not as grand as in downtown Tokyo, it was still enjoyable. Taken place in some major mall like Aqua City, Diver City, Venusfort and also the Decks Odaiba.

I was walking back from Aqua City to my hotel, Ariake when I saw a place that reminds me a lot of European cities. It has a chapel, a Romanesque fountain, restaurants, cobblestone streets and some shops in the complex. For a moment it felt like I was strolling around the Old City of Luzern, Switzerland. I asked Mr. Google and found out that the name of this place is Partire Tokyo Bay Wedding Village. Apparently this place is pretty popular amongst love birds who fantasise Western style wedding. It's kind of a one-stop-shopping wedding thingy. It provides everything from wedding gown, make up and all the stuff....including a (fake) Caucasian priest. Interesting place and pretty too!


Osaka Hikari Renaissance

Osaka winter illumination 

Osaka Central Public Hall

lampions

food vendors around the venue

Winter illumination is pretty big deal too in Osaka. One of the popular venue is at Osaka City Hall until to the Eastern tip of Nakanoshima Park. One of the programs is wall tapestry lighting show at Osaka City Central Public Hall. I loved it too much that I sat in freezing temperature for nearly 2 hours and watched 5 shows non stop. Each lighting show lasted about 10 minutes, every 15 minutes with a break in betwwen. I only decided to go back to my hotel when my hands turn blue and almost caught a hypothermia. Seriously it was just mesmerising (don't forget to turn the volume up when you watch the video below). Good thing there was food bazaar too in the venue so I could grab some food and drink to warm up my body. Don't miss this when you are in Osaka. Starts from December 14 to December 25, 2018. 17:00 until 22:00.

If you are heading to Japan for Christmas holiday or in Japan right now, please tag me on Instagram or Twitter. Make me jealous with your beautiful pictures of the winter illumination.
Happy holidays!😘

PS: For latest updates and more information about winter illumination in cities across Japan, please check the details in japan-guide.com

Hong Kong: Ghosts & Myths of Wan Chai

Wan Chai, March 2018

Though I spent pretty much half my childhood in Hong Kong, I've never really explored Wan Chai area. It is merely one station apart from where my apartment was in Causeway Bay. So earlier this year when I visited my granny's sister, I decided to join a local walking tour that I've been eyeing for quite sometimes, Walk In Hong Kong. Nope, it's not a sponsored post. I write this simply because I love what they do and maybe you guys would enjoy some of their tours too. I booked two different walking tour through their website which were Ghost & Myths of Wan Chai Tour and Kowloon Walled City & Food Adventure Tour. Since we are in the Halloween mood now, let's talk about something spooky first and I'll write the latter on different post. Wan Chai is one of the oldest district in Hong Kong and has many untold stories in the dark corner of this concrete jungle.

Now, don't forget to pack those huge cross, holy water, silver bullet and garlic as your weapon before we walk through the most haunted alley in Wan Chai!....okay....I'm just kidding! It's more like packing an umbrella, mineral water, some coins to buy something and garlic bread as a snack actually. Fred not, this tour is completely safe even if you are a scaredy cat. We won't be doing some ghost hunter like the Ghostbusters 😂


STAR STREET SHRINE

I met my guide, Audrey at our assigned meeting point in One Pacific Place that afternoon. After a  brief introduction, we headed to our first stop just across the building. At one cul-de-sec off Wing Fung Street, lays this shrine blocking a door which apparently is an air raid tunnel. During the World War II, hundreds of people were killed on the spot before they managed to reach the bomb shelter. It happened one day when the alarm failed to warn them of an air raid. Since then the people who live in the neighbourhood often saw some ghost heads wailed in the street. The shrine was built to seal the entrance of an air raid shelter and suppress the restless spirits from within.

haunted bomb shelter

"You can actually take a peek inside the tunnel, but I'm not coming with you. I will just wait here." Audrey whispered to me.

"Do you think that would be okay?" I was a bit concerned because I saw the 'no unauthorised entry' sign on the door. Audrey looked around and nodded. I slowly climbed up the steps towards the black door with rusty slits and moved the wood bar. I looked back and saw Audrey nodded, once again. I pulled the door and suddenly a gust of wind pushed the door open from inside. I was stunned, not expecting that. A musty odour stung my nostrils. Staring at the dark grey tunnel, I felt uneasy. A voice in my head kept saying, "Don't go in! Close the door now!" As a person who is very sensitive to negative energy and have a claustrophobia issue, I didn't want to have the same experience as the one in the Catacombs of Paris. I decided to take a final glance at the shelter and shut the door. Maybe not today, I told myself.

saw this on the street, it's meant to keep the evil spirits away

ST. LUKE'S COLLEGE

Located at Hill Side Terrace street, this private English school started its operation from 1950 and ended around 1980. It became an empty abandoned building since then. A couple of real estate developers have been trying to reconstruct this building but for some weird reasons, their plan have always failed. Years before the college, this building used to be a private residence, owned by an old couple. They refused to surrender their house and the Japanese soldiers killed them and used the building as a military brothel. Stories of ghostly sightings have been circulate that people who live around this college would put a small shrine and burn incense to keep the evil spirits away.

Once again I climbed up the stairs to the entrance alone because Audrey insisted she wouldn't go nearer the building. I walked around the college hoping I would find any access to enter but it seems everything have been locked. I was actually curious to see the classes which have been said still have all the student wood desks and chairs. I couldn't stand the stinky odour  so I left immediately when I couldn't gain any access into the school.

NAM KOO TERRACE 

💔💔💔

It's considered one of the most haunted places in Hong Kong and the one I was looking forward to visit the most. Sadly there was a major construction in the area and it's prohibited to access the alley towards the historic building 😭.  What's so special about Nam Koo Terrace then? While most ghost stories in the area are based on urban myth or stories passed among the locals, one incidents at Nam Koo Terrace actually managed to be the headlines on newspapers and TV.

In 2003 a bunch of high school students broke into the house in order to have some 'supernatural adventure'. They stayed overnight inside one of the room and played Ouija board to communicate with the spirits. After a while, three of the girls started to act really strange, got really depressed and soon hysterical. The rest of the group were frightened, called the police and tried to drag the girls out the house.  The polices came to help but one of the most affected girls turned psychotic and refused to leave the house. She kept saying there's a man from upstairs calling her back so she fought the policeman. A couple hours later they finally managed to drag this girl out and sent her straight to a hospital for a psychiatric treatment. Later on the girl escaped from the hospital and was reported missing until today.

Nam Koo Terrace was built in 1915 and was originally owned by a tycoon from Shanghai who then was forced to flee the house by the Japanese soldiers around 1940. They turned it into a brothel house by kidnapping local girls, raped and tortured them for a 'recreational reason' before finally the soldiers beheaded the girls. Years passed by and the house became a suicide house where desperate people come to end their own life. Dozens of bodies had been discovered since. It's been said that people in the neighbourhood often hear women crying and screaming from inside the house until this day. Audrey also told me that the house is now in renovation progress and it will turned into a marriage registry office.


HUNG SHING TEMPLE 

Interesting fact about this tempe, around 1847 it started out as an altar built on a rock that stood on what used to be the Wan Chai shoreline. From outside I couldn't see the huge boulder which is actually a part of the main altar. This temple is dedicated to Hung Hei, a god of southern seas and protector against disaster. There's also a shrine of the 3 Goddesses but I can't remember the name now. My bad! Gotta ask Google soon 😜



HOPEWELL CENTRE

In the 80s, the 64-storey building was famously known as the tallest building in Hong Kong. But behind the impressive title, there's a tiny hiccups during the construction. A Feng Shui master was concerned about the tall cylindrical shape of this building which looks like a candle. It is believed to attract the fire element and might cause some problem to the building. Thus as the master requested, a round pool was added on the rooftop of Maxwell Centre. It was aimed to cool or tame down the fire element. As an Indonesian Chinese, I'm familiar with this superstitious and feng shui thingy. It's quite big deal for the Chinese. Does the pool addition really protect the whole building? Well I can't say much but there wasn't any fire related incidents up till now.


THE BLUE HOUSE

Built in 1923, the Blue House is the most iconic historic building of the district. The building was once used as a hospital then turned into a temple to a brewery, a shops, a martial arts school (one of the students of Wong Fei Hung!) and a chiropractic clinic. Nonetheless this building is loaded with captivating stories. It is nowadays the home for Wanchai Livelihood Museum. There's a rumour about a nearby eatery was being asked to send some food to the 4th floor and when the delivery boy arrived, he could hear the noise of people playing mahjong (Chinese tile-based games) from inside the room. He kept knocking on the door for a quite sometimes but no one responded. He then decided to open the door only to find that the room has been unoccupied for a very long time.



OLD WAN CHAI MARKET

What you see now as a luxury apartment building was once a traditional market built in 1937. During the war, there were way too many bodies scattered around this area. So the basement storeroom of the market used as a makeshift mortuary. Many sightings have been reported here. And there's a story that has been passed down through the generations about the Cha Siu Bao (barbecue-pork-filled bun) seller in the market. During the war it was expectantly difficult to get food and most people were not well feed. Though at that time the meat supplies was almost non existent, this seller was still producing piping hot bun with fresh meat filling every single day. There was some scepticism about where he managed to get the daily meat supplies from. Errrr....I think there are some things that are better left unknown 🙈



PAK TAI TEMPLE

We walked uphill on the Stone Nullah Lane and reached our final stop, the Pak Tai Temple. It is one of the oldest and the most important temples in Hong Kong. Entering the temple, Audrey explained to me that the main area used to be an open courtyard but now is the home to the statue of Pak Tai, the God of the north. On the right wing, there's a room filled up with incense smokes and a shrine for the Dragon God Mother. Women from around the world come here to pray for fertility and to be able to conceive a baby.

Don't fear the ghosts, fear the human...that's what I've been telling my friends who asked me why I'm so fascinated by myths and horror stories. I, myself never intend to meet any ghosts if they were really existed. But I seriously think that even the scariest ghosts I've seen on the movie are pale to comparison with some cruelest black-hearted people I had encountered in real life. I'm a very curious person and most of the time I wonder what's the history behind old buildings. What happened there? How did the ghost story start to spread among the locals? And the question goes on. 

Time really does seem to fly by when you are having fun. I couldn't believe it had been 2,5 hours strolling around the area and it was time to bid Audrey goodbye. I certainly had a blast listening to her stories. To me this ghost tour is not only about those hair-rising stories but more about appreciating the historical buildings that keep decreasing throughout these years. And of course there's still plenty of spots that I haven't explored which have equally interesting stories. But I shall keep it for my next visit to Hong Kong 😉

Have you ever joined any ghost tours before? Which city would you recommend me to join?